Monday, 23 May 2016

Getting my jumpsuit on again Vogue 9075

WHHHHAT UP. I am back. And, what have I got for you?

Another jumpsuit! After the success of my much-loved Named Ailaaki jumpsuit, I didn't think I'd find another that I liked as much, but Vogue 9075 comes close for lots of reasons. Plus it's brought me out of blogging hibernation because I wanted to share how awesome this pattern is.

Firstly, when I saw the pattern during a casual peruse online I was instantly drawn to the great sketch on the envelope cover. It's super on-trend with those wide-legged culotte trousers and the simple fitted bodice has potential to be tweaked in several ways. And, it's so much easier than it looks. It's a brilliant, easy sew, which was so enjoyable. It had just the right amount of technicality to get my sewing juices flowing (princess seams, concealed zip, pockets, pleats) but otherwise was so simple. I whizzed through it.

For fabric, I used up what was in my current stash. I am on a sustainable drive (more about that in a future blog post) and haven't bought any fabric in a long time. I am trying in earnest to use up what I already have and to work with the lengths and widths that I am stuck with, unless I absolutely need to buy anything new. For this project, I found just the right amount of chambray in my stock, which in my opinion suits this pattern so well. I really can't remember where I got it from (it's either a Canadian job, or a purchase with Sally from Charity Shop Chic) but it's fab, washed a treat and sewed up very well.

I was incredibly lucky that the chambray was the exact width and length I needed and even then placing the pattern pieces was a game of pattern Tetris - who doesn't love a spot of that sometimes? Additionally, to ensure the project worked out as planned and to prevent waste, I took super accurate measurements from the flat pattern to avoid making a toile. With a bit of time, maths and familiarity with your body and particular pattern brands, it's a great practice to put in place each time and goes a long way to reducing fabric scraps that will only go to landfill.

My Bowie Yamamoto (but less serious)

As my measurements had it, I cut a size 10 on the bodice and graded to a 12 in the waist and culottes. The bodice fits like a dream even with addition of a light cotton lining. The waist is perfect and the pleats provide any forgiveness as well as hide lumps and bumps. It's such a brill pattern for feeling well-dressed on a bog-standard Monday.

Construction wise, the pattern is so well-drafted that it all goes together in a breeze. The bodice is a simple shell with princess seams finished at the neckline by the lining. I used a light floral cotton that had been in my stash for some time - I believe I bought it on a trip to the Village Haberdashery with my sweet friend Jennifer Wiese. There are pleats on both the front and back of the culottes, awesome pockets and a long concealed zip, so nothing majorly taxing yet satisfying to make nonetheless. I think sewing can be even more of a turn on when you've got a major hard on for the pattern to begin with - right?

I chose to keep the short sleeves as the pattern intended. I've seen other people's makes online with the culotte version finished without sleeves, but I quite like the simple t-shirt look - I think it also makes this a bit more day friendly, you know as I'm out walking down Greenwich in orange wedges and a gold belt. Bog standard Monday for me!