Monday, 29 September 2014

Sewing for the man. Burda 7045 shirt.

This latest project was promised almost two years ago. I'm that crappy when it comes to sewing for Mr Szabs.

On a trip to Berlin, some moons ago, we went to the very cute and candy store-like Frau Tulpe. If you're ever in Berlin, I definitely recommend taking a trip to Mitte to check this place out. I got some lovely Michael Miller prints and some unique German cotton.

Patient as ever, I asked Mr Szabs if he saw anything he liked for a shirt. Surprisingly, he chose a sweet Autumnal-esque floral print. An idea was born, but one that would fester for said two-year period. Oops! However, our two-year anniversary rolled around and as two years represents cotton, I finally set to work.

Now, before I show you the finished result, let me tell you how fussy my guy is with shirts. They have to be slim fit with no baggyness AND no ridiculous Harry Hill collars (which I find most sewing patterns have). I've made Mr Szabs two shirts before, and they've been great but still not quite perfect. This time I decided to try Burda Style 7045 as there are two styles and one shirt has the option of darts.

My baby Daddy

In making this shirt, I first collated the flat-pattern measurements and then compared them to one of Mr Szabs favourite RTW shirts. The size I opted for was a 34, which seemed small, but added up to the RTW and his body measurements. The changes I made were to grade at the neck and shoulders to accommodate his collar size, and to grade the awful collar down to something a bit less comical! Seriously, Burda, wut?

I wanted to make this shirt as a complete surprise, but luckily my cautious side stepped in and showed it to him a few days before our anniversary. All I can say is, phew! A fit of giggles ensued as, yep, the shirt was definitely a little too snug. It's all that popcorn, my little sweet-toothed Canuck!

Although I had already flat-felled one side seam (and oh how neat and handsome it looked) I opted for a cheeky save, and stitched the other side seam at just 1/4". Albeit a tiny seam, it saved the day and made a huge difference to the fit. My client was pleased. I then zig zagged and mock flat-felled said tiny seam, as unless Tim Gunn takes Mr Szabs' shirt off for an inspection, who will know?

 Canadian guys rule <3

I could then carry on finishing the shirt adding the collar, sleeves and cuffs. I love doing these parts of a shirt, it brings out my geeky sewing side. I always use this method to get super-duper pointy collars - if you've not tried it before, do, it will change your life!

Button-wise I didn't have time to order anything special, so I used some standard shirt buttons I picked up in one of those handy packs in Sainsbury's. No shame!

Instructions-wise this pattern was pretty good. The shirt includes sleeve plackets, and I thought that as far as instructions go, these were quite clear. I have made these plackets before so I did have a fair idea of the construction process, but a shirt-newbie may scratch their heads a little. 

Mr Szabs really likes this shirt, and is pleased with the fit. It's still not 100%, but I think I am only one step away from the perfect go-to-pattern for his shirts. I asked him for his alterations, and he would prefer a shaped bottom (on the shirt!), which I agree with. I am not sure why this pattern has such a straight hem, fine I guess if you're just tucking the shirt in, but not great for casual wear over trousers. He'd also like a firmer collar, so I'll employ those little plastic thingies into the corners next time. I'll also go a up a size so that I can properly flat-fell ALL the seams and possibly lengthen the sleeves a little. Otherwise, I think we have THE pattern for Mr Szabs Shirt-Making Emporium.

I can't resist including these out-takes. During the photo-shoot Mr Szabs decided to copy what he says I do when posing for my blog photos! HA HA HA!!!!  



Have you made your guy a shirt? Which pattern has been your most successful so far?

Wednesday, 24 September 2014

Dip your toe into shirt dress heaven. Come make the 6696 with me!

Hey peeps!

Belly is growing, but I'm still a-sewing.

My latest make is another McCall's 6696. As you know this is my favourite pattern ever and I've already made two versions (if you want to see them click here and here).

The great news is that I will be teaching this pattern at Ray Stitch in London starting on the 28 October. The course will be three evenings (over three weeks) and I'll show you how to get to grips with an entire shirt dress, including collars, button plackets, pockets - the works!

This is version B of the pattern, which is a straight skirt with darts and pockets.

Yes, check out that check matching. You're welcome. 

Although this is marketed as a summer pattern, it's definitely adaptable for the colder months. Ray Stitch sent me some stunning dark brown Japanese fabric to make up the dress, giving the pattern a whole new lease of life as a cosy Autumn day dress. I imagine this dress with thick tights and a big chunky cream cardigan.

Unfortunately, there are no pics of me modelling this little beauty as it's been made for a size 10 mannequin, which is sadly no longer the size of my pregnant bewbs and belly! But I'll stroke the leftover scraps until I can order my own wad of this lovely stuff.

You can find details and how to sign up for the class on the Ray Stitch website. The shop is located on Essex Road in Islington, close to Angel tube and Essex Road mainline station. 

How will you wear yours?

Sunday, 7 September 2014

Two Netties and a Bump

Even though it's been over a month since I last hung out in blogger, I have been sewing and have some overdue makes to share with you all. My recent makes all have a certain thing in common...they stretch(!) as I am now 3 1/2 months pregnant with my first bubba! Our little 'Shrimp' is doing super well and I couldn't be more in love and happy. So, obviously, I have needed to think about sewing up some cool maternity wear that isn't a one-way ticket into frumpsville.

First up is a pattern I am really in love with. Nettie!

Before we get down to the nitty gritty, I just want to say I didn't test this pattern, nor am I stroking the rather gorgeous backside of Nettie's creator, Heather Lou (although I wouldn't say no...) - I am genuinely positively pleased this pattern exists in my life.

I first made the bodysuit as a little test in early August to see whether I picked the right sizing. I used this awesome knit I picked up in New York in March. I can't remember the shop, but I think it was the day me, Lauren, Sonja, Devra and Trice hit the town in force. It's more of a knit than a jersey so has some lovely stretch to it to accommodate the expanding weeks ahead.

I chose the scoop front, high back version with long sleeves. For sizing, I cut the size 10 on top and graded out to the 12 on the bum-bum, as I can always do with a little room in that area, especially now (see next photo!). The fit was perfect and couldn't be more comfortable! I really love the design of the bum and hip area - it's not the vag-slicing cut of the 90s but more of a lean towards the 50s, not dissimilar to the Bombshell Swimsuit. As a result, it's very comfortable to wear under your chosen bottoms and you don't find yourself wriggling about or having to do a covert reshuffle of your bits and pieces.

Another reason why I like this pattern is that it's super fun to make up. With experience, I now really enjoy working with knits and stretchy stuff, especially adding neckbands. For this project I used only my sewing machine and a narrow zig zag stitch, switching between a single stretch needle and a twin stretch needle for top-stitching.

When working with stripes, it does take a bit more time as you need to concentrate during pinning the pattern to fabric to ensure you're matching the stripes correctly. I usually start by pinning a specific area on the side seam of the front, then matching the same spot on the back. I then pin almost each stripe to prevent movement. It takes some time but it's really worth it.

Say hi to the bump, but check out that stripe matching!

This version of the Nettie will definitely last me for a while and will be nice and cosy with the colder months coming up. 

Once I had the fit of the Nettie down, I could get started on what I really wanted to use the pattern for. Back in Spring, I had the dream of a white and navy stripe t-shirt dress for Summer. Luckily in March, I spotted Lauren buying the perfect fabric in Mood and I grabbed about 5 yards too. Didn't care about cost and weight, I wasn't leaving that treasure behind!

I also made this up in August to wear on my birthday. It was bit of an overcast day, but I did wear it to eat my super lovely breakfast made by Mama Delle. She even found me alcohol free bucks fizz!

Even though this knit was less stretchy, I still decided to follow the same sizing (10 on top, 12 bottom). I used Heather Lou's stretch guide and was confident this fabric would work. For style, I chose high front and high back and added short sleeves to achieve the t-shirt dress I had in my mind.

I worked with my sewing machine and overlocker for stitching and finish, using a twin stretch needle for top stitching. For some reason, the twin needle got fed up with the hem and started skipping stitches so I reverted back to the single needle. I wasn't prepared to put up a fight!

Again, I didn't have to make any alterations and am really pleased with the outcome. It's now a month later, bump is bigger and the dress is still a brilliant addition to my wardrobe.

I am thinking of making another dress version in a heavier black jersey or a ponte for the Autumn to wear with tights and boots. Yey for Nettie! 

On a side note the following really made me chuckle. I saw on GOMI a comment that my Martini dress I tested for Capital Chic Patterns was too tight. I made that dress back in mid May pre-preggers to wear to a wedding, yet didn't get around to taking photos for the blog until July...well let's just say my body had started to enjoy some swelling in the belly and bewbs area already!!! I knew I was running out of time to photo that before Shrimp was like, nope, I'm not being squeezed into that, Mama! So, the dress may have looked a little more snug than intended, although I still think it looked good. Anyway, it gave me a good giggle. Jerry's Final Thought...don't judge a book by its cover people, that book just might be knocked up! 

Thursday, 31 July 2014

Another post, another cocktail dress

I assure you readers, my life is really not fancy enough to warrant two consecutive cocktail dresses, but you never know when Don rolls in drunk on Scotch and expects me to seal the deal with Burger Chef. Don, you know I’m veggie!!!

A while back, my boss informed me that I had an industry awards event to attend. Wait. What? Cue, I have nothing to wear panic. At the same time I was due to think about a July make for the Minerva Blogger Network, so I decided to marriage the two and make a little cocktail dress using some gorgeous lace I had been hoarding in my stash from Minerva.

I always wanted this lace to have a chic life, transformed into some sort of slim fitting evening wear with sheer lace features on the arms. Racking my brains for the pattern I decided on Vogue 8766. You may recognise this from the Great British Sewing Bee when Ann made a very elegant navy lace version in one of the final rounds.

For my version I used Minerva’s super cool mesh lace. It appealed to me as it made me remember Michelle in Project Runway Season 11, when she painted a kind of sooty, Manhattan-inspired ombre effect on some wool, which turned into a big full skirt. Although pretty, this lace has a more contemporary, edgy look to it and I love the combination of traditional lace with the almost paint-splattered effect.

For the pattern I made a muslin cutting the size 10 for bodice and grading out to the 12 on the skirt. The fit was spot on and I didn’t have to tweak anything. Thank you Vogue!

The pattern itself is really straightforward, however, you may want to take extra steps in the construction process. If you’re using a combo of lace and lining (also provided by Minerva) as I have you’ll want to tack the bodice fabric and lining together so they are treated as one piece. To do this, tack around the edges and then a couple of lines down each bodice front. This helps to keep everything stable when it comes to pinning and sewing your darts.

When it comes to machining, the lining provides enough support to use a straight stitch. However, any stitching on purely lace should use a narrow zig zag.

The skirt, is treated as two separate pieces as you want the lining to hang free from the lace and also to be able to hem it. I let my lining hem sit flush with the raw edge of the lace (no need to hem this mesh lace). I tried shortening the lining but I didn’t like the effect.

I used French Seams throughout to finish the dress (including waist seam), working with a 5/8” SA. So that’s a 3/8” seam trimmed and then stitched at ¼”.

This guy didn't care that I was in a middle of an important photo shoot!

The sleeves have a nice dart feature on the cap, giving a little height and structure. I would imagine on a firmer lace, they would sit even more proud, but you can still see the effect here.

Personally, I found the size 10 sleeves far too wide for my liking. For this sort of look, I like a very slim fitted sleeve. It looks younger and more chic. With the sleeve folded in half, I simply measured 1 ¼” in at the sleeve hem and then using a ruler, pinned a line to the edge of the armhole. I then cut this straight with my rotary cutter. The mesh lace has enough stretch in it for you to be able to get it over your hand. I finished the sleeve seam with a French seam as seen here.

I used a regular zipper for the dress and chose to handsew it in. I prefer using a prickstitch as it’s nice and hidden, and gives you more control with the lace.

I felt really good in this dress and completely unique. I even got a lovely compliment from my MD’s wife who was really surprised that I had made the dress myself. Win! It’s definitely going to be a wedding/cocktail dress staple in my wardrobe!

Saturday, 26 July 2014

How do you like this martini, Mr Bond?

As you all know, Sally from Charity Shop Chic launched her own pattern line last month called Capital Chic. If you haven't checked out the unique and very fashionable range, first...why not? And second, get over there now!

I was lucky enough to be asked to test the gorgeous and super sexy Martini cocktail dress. Available in two versions, the Martini is very on trend featuring a crop top and high-waisted skirt that can either be made as separates or cleverly joined together. I opted for the joined version and here's how it turned out!

Now...I know you might be recognising this fabric as the very same fabric featured in the Capital Chic collection, well, um...uh....I have no excuse, it is the same. Why fix it if it ain't broken?! I saw this fabric at a sneaky preview of the collection and fell in love. It's a super cool, textured curtain fabric from Rolls and Rems in Lewisham. And I know how much Don loves me in a pair of curtains!

The thicker fabric actually provides the perfect amount of structure for creating the cropped bodice, which is designed to stand away from the body. It not only sews and presses like a dream but also helps the skirt to truly skim over those curves.

Sizing wise, I made the bodice and skirt in a 12 widening slightly at the hips. I really like how fitted the dress is supposed to be - so bear this in mind when making yours. If you prefer a looser fit, size up or make a muslin to see what suits you best.

The pattern instructions are nice and clear with helpful diagrams along the way. There are some great techniques for intermediate sewers who like the extra challenge in their sewing, including a lined vent, french seams, using the bodice lining to face the armholes and neckline, invisible zipper and boning (optional).

So, Mr Bond, what do you think?

Tuesday, 1 July 2014

The Gillian Dress: McCalls 6696 sequel

They say most sequels are never as good as the first film, with exception to the Godfather 2...obviously. So, does the same apply to repeated sewing makes of the same pattern? I think, with the help of the outstanding McCalls 6696, I may have made a Godfather 2. But, the vote is of course yours dear readers *scratches face, ask your friends in the neighborhood about me. They'll tell you I know how to return a favor.

It's no secret that I love the McCalls shirt dress (6696). I first made it last year to wear on a date with Elvis at Sun Studios. Ever since, it's been the pattern I heartily recommend and praise. With zero alterations (I can make a size 10 straight out of the packet with no fuss) it makes sewing up a shirt dress a breeze, and so I have been eager to make a sequel.

This time around I opted for the straight skirt version, which omits the belt loops, and has short sleeves and pockets. I wanted a more classic shirt that would be suitable for perching on the edge of a desk while I write down Don's lunch order, or out for a sunny stroll in Greenwich. And what better fabric to do the job, but glorious chambray.

I bought this chambray in Toronto last summer while fabric shopping with my TO girls (Catja, Andrea, Sara and Gillian). Both Gillian and I bought some of this fabric, so I have named my dress in tribute to her. Gillian is one of the sweetest fellow sewers I have ever met, which makes a cool, easy and cute shirt dress seem pretty apt for such an equally cool gal.

The only alteration I made to this pattern was the gathering on the back bodice. I didn't mind it on my pleated skirt version, but for the straight skirt style I chose to omit the gathering. I did this by removing the gathering allowance and using the new line as the fold. As you'll see I had a brain fart and forgot the bottom of the back bodice has a greater gathered allowance. Doh! So, there is still some gathering there but I do like it and it's definitely less poofy than before.

Thanks to an overwhelming vote on Instagram, I used white thread for topstitching my yoke seams. However, after some deliberation I chose not to topstitch the collar. I've left this plain and prefer the finish.

The buttons are my favourite detail. I managed to find white rubber buttons in Kleins, Soho. They are really unusual and bendy, and because they are made of rubber, they have a nice 'grip' on the fabric.

Otherwise, the make was pretty much the same as my Sun Studios version. I overlocked all seams apart from the waistband and yoke, which are faced with the same fabric.

I really love this dress, it washes great and feels lovely to wear. It's already had a few outings including a Mexican feast in Toronto - seemed fitting that the chambray got to return home in shirt dress glory!

So, what do you think? Can I persuade you to jump on the McCalls 6696 train and start an epidemic of shirt dresses?

Thursday, 26 June 2014

Drink up folks! There's a new pattern company in town.

Hello everyone!

It's been a while since I last blogged because I've been so busy attending the amazing Minerva Meet Up weekend extravaganza, as well as visiting family and friends in Canada.

But, I'm back and ready to get sewing and blogging.

I have some lovely makes to show you over the next couple of days, but first I want to share some exciting news about a brand new Indie Pattern company that has just launched. Welcome Capital Chic Patterns!

I love this pattern line, not only because it's been designed and created by my lovely friend Sally from Charity Shop Chic, but also because I genuinely feel that Capital Chic Patterns is offering something different and unique to the plethora of sewing patterns now available to the home sewer.

Focused on work wear and cocktail wear, Capital Chic Patterns make for perfect day-to-night outfits. There is also great versatility to adapt the patterns for a sleek girl-about-town weekend look - of course stopping for a little champagne brunch along the way.

The awesome 'Cosmopolitan' dress

Named after cocktails, each of the PDF patterns comes with two variations included. Above, is the Cosmopolitan dress which can be made in either a blouse or dress, and features a gorgeous lace appliqué trim above the bust. The White Russian sweater below is also super cool; it comes with a selection of motifs (lion version in picture) that can be quilted onto the sweatshirt - sign me up!

The silhouettes of Capital Chic Patterns are certainly more structured and slimline, which really suits my personal aesthetic, creating a chic, stylish city look. As a city girl and participant in all things cocktail related, I'm very excited about making some of these patterns up! Don definitely approves :)

The clever 'White Russian' sweater 

The patterns’ difficulty ranges from intermediate to advanced, perfect for those looking to move on from sewing beginner styles. Available now for digital download from as print-at-home and print-at-copyshop PDF files, the patterns currently come in five sizes, from UK 10 to UK 18, and are nested for easy blending between sizes. A wider size range may be available later in the year, depending on demand. They are also very affordable ranging from £8-10.

I have already made up a very special dress from the range, the Martini, but I'll save all the details for that post. Let me just say though, it's a hottie!

I know Sally has worked extremely hard on creating this amazing debut and I would like to wish her all the luck in the world. Get over to Capital Chic Patterns now and grab yourself a little something special - the cocktails are waiting!